Updated: June 6, 2008, 10:35 AM ET
Two and a half years ago, I bought a house about a mile from where I grew up in Punta Hermosa. This is where I spend most of my time when I'm home. The house is right on the beach, and behind my house are two great surf breaks—Caballeros, to the right, and Senoritas, to the left. I have been surfing senoritas, a left break, a lot this time. It's been sunny and beautiful, the waves have been great and some of my friends are in town. I wake up, check the waves, put on my wetsuit (it's winter down here) and surf.