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The Answer Archives

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The Answers — Straight from Yamaha

Aug. 28, 2009

Q: I own a 2002 250 HPDI and have 236 hours on it. It's on a Sratos 21 XL and I love both it and the boat. I have taken it back to a dealer for winterizing, just about every end of season. My question is, do I need to have anything "special" done? It runs great and I just want to keep it in tiptop shape. Should I have them check oil pump settings, change plugs, etc.?
— Gary Montgomery

A: Thanks for your question, Gary. We're glad to hear your reliable Yamaha outboard continues to serve you well, and that you're seriously interested in taking care of it!

The best thing to do is consult your owner's manual for information regarding winterization and periodic maintenance on your specific outboard model. Since it would appear you don't put many hours on it per year, winterization is an ideal time to do both functions at once. During these procedures, your authorized Yamaha Marine dealer can do a comprehensive visual check of your outboard to help make sure any potential issues or needed adjustments are spotted and corrected.

You can view a copy of your owner's manual and your outboard's factory-recommended winterization and maintenance procedures on our Web site at www.yamahaoutboards.com under "Parts and Service" (hint: make sure you put in that your engine is a 2003 model).

Following proper winterization and periodic maintenance procedures are the key to being ready to hit the water when Ol' Man Winter leaves town and spring, well ... springs!

Thanks, and fish on!

July 21, 2009

Q: I have a 2007 Yamaha VZ250. What is the difference between it and a "Series 2" 250 Yamaha?
— Brooks Holland, Prattville, Ala.

A: The outboard you have is a 3.3L VZ250, which features our exclusive 1,000psi High Pressure Direct Injection System (HPDI®), performance-shaped lower unit, and a litany of features particular to the 3.3L V MAX® line up. This line-up consists of 200-hp, 225-hp, 250-hp, and 300-hp outboards. "Series 2" V MAX outboards enhance a few internal features, including re-designed pistons, new fuel mapping in the computerized Engine Control Unit, and a re-calibrated Precision Blend® oil injection pump.

Yamaha enjoys a hard-earned reputation for reliability, and these internal improvements were intended to help strengthen these outboard's already proven level of durability. To this end, Yamaha also added a standard 3-year limited warranty for pleasure use with all Series 2 outboards.

Well maintained, either generation of these power plants will reward you with fast, reliable starts, strong acceleration, and blazing top speed.

Thanks for your question, and Fish On!!

P.S. Your Yamaha VZ250 outboard engine should have had the new oil pump installed (it's labeled 60V03 on the oil pump lever). If it hasn't been, contact your local authorized Yamaha Marine dealer for details. It's a no-charge installation.

July 13, 2009

Q: Is there a faster prop for my ZX225 than the stock 15-1/8 25p Ti?
— David Dwyer

A: Without more information about your particular setup, we're going to have to make a few assumptions. First, we're assuming you're talking about a Skeeter ZX225. Secondly, we're assuming you're running a Yamaha V MAX Series 2, 225-horsepower outboard. If these assumptions are correct, your boat package most likely came with Yamaha's V MAX 25-inch pitch prop.

Propellers are a system of "trade-offs," so no one prop is going to give you the best of all worlds. You may see better top-end with a 27-inch pitch V MAX propeller, but you'd give up some low-end hole shot to get there. Another possibility might be a Turbo Lightning 3-blade stainless steel propeller in 26-inch pitch (www.turbo-props.com). When it comes to propellers, the best source of information is on-water testing until you find the propeller that best meets your needs and desires. Your local Yamaha Marine dealer may be able to help.

June 10, 2009

Q: I have a Yamaha V MAX HPDI 200 (year model 2000) on my boat. I have noticed it really smokes a lot at idle. The motor is still very strong. It still pushes my old triton TR-20 to almost 70 mph. Are there any adjustments that should be made to this motor by a Yamaha technician? I have contacted a local Yamaha dealer in West Point, Ga., and they told me to just keep on driving it and not worry. I get a little embarrassed when going through the check-out lines at the beginning of a bass tourney. I smoke everyone out! Any information you could provide me "straight from Yamaha" would be appreciated.
— Bill Capps, Auburn, Ala.

A: Glad to hear your V MAX HPDI 200 is still running strong after all these years! That's partially a testament to how well you must take care of it! Regarding your smoking at idle issue, here are a couple of things to check on.

First, make sure you're running a high-quality TC-W3 approved oil, preferably from a marine outboard manufacturer. Doing so can make a big difference in visible smoke, particularly at low or idle speeds. Yamalube 2M is recommended. Secondly, your outboard is equipped with an oil pump that features a variable flow based on engine load and speed. It must be set correctly and it's adjustment checked periodically. It may be that over time the adjustment has gone a bit "rich," administering more oil than necessary. This effect will be most noticeable at idle speeds in the form of visible smoke. While not harmful to your engine, have your authorized Yamaha Marine dealer check this setting, and adjust your oil pump's output if necessary.

Regarding upgrading your outboard, two of the best ways are to check YamahaOutboards.com for the latest promotion details, and keep in touch with your local Yamaha Marine dealer.
Thanks, and fish on!

April 16, 2009

Q: Will use of a 10-percent ethanol blended gasoline cause harm to outboard engines and, if so, is there an additive on the market that can eliminate the harmful effects caused by the biofuel mixture?
— Stan Segraves, Pocahontas, Ark.

A: All modern outboards are safe to use with gasoline containing up to 10 percent ethanol, or E-10, so there's no harm there. The problem lies primarily with "runability" issues caused by use of ethanol-enhanced fuels. Ethanol is a powerful solvent, and it also attracts water. The solvency issue can cause debris in the fuel, coming from the boat's fuel system and the storage tanks wherever the fuel was purchased. As for water, well, gasoline and water don't mix. If more than about 1/2 of 1% is absorbed, "phase separation" occurs and the water will settle to the bottom of the tank, where it can be ingested into the engine. In advanced situations, either of these scenarios can lead to a no-start condition, runability problems, or even catastrophic engine damage. Your best line of defense is a good 10-micron water/fuel separating filter, changed at regular intervals, and the regular use of a good quality fuel conditioner and stabilizer, which will help slow down the degradation of the fuel as well as the water absorption process. Also, try to purchase your fuel where they sell a lot of it so that it's as fresh as possible.

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