Updated: May 2, 2005, 8:18 PM ET

Hunt Planner: King of the arctic tundra

Alaskan caribou offer one of the most challenging, rewarding hunts

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By Lynn Burkhead
ESPNOutdoors.com associate editor — June 2, 2004

I consider caribou the most spectacular animal I've hunted with bow and arrow. With his towering, heavily palmated antlers and his snowy white cape, the caribou — more than any other animal on the face of the earth — can honestly be called spectacularly beautiful.

You might even want to call him majestic. I've seen giant-antlered caribou bulls silhouetted in the evening sunset on glacier-topped mountains that made me positive God had purposely given them such a magnificent crown and put them up there, on a throne high above the rest of the world, and intended them to be king of the arctic tundra.

— G. Fred Asbell, legendary traditional bowhunter


Caribou
A heavily antlered caribou is one of North America's most prized big-game trophies, both on the wall and the dinner table.
To many, the caribou is king in the land of the midnight sun, a place where only the wind and the whisper of time speaks upon the tundra.

And one day, like many thousands of other hunters in the lower 48, I plan to step from a bush plane to begin the adventure of a lifetime, chasing arctic royalty on four hooves with bow in hand. Unfortunately, taking such a dream hunt isn't simple.

Why? The North Country is a lonely, intimidating and potentially dangerous place for the unfamiliar, the unprepared and, certainly, the uncaring.

"Guys who say they are going to come out here and do a 10- to 14- day do-it-yourself hunt for something they've never hunted, they're stacking the deck against themselves," agreed Jim Dau, an experienced caribou hunter and a wildlife biologist with the Alaska Department of Fish and Game.

"Just having hunting experience somewhere else doesn't necessarily help a hunter here. How relevant is their experience in Pennsylvania going to be in northwestern Alaska?"

Among the most challenging elements a caribou hunter can face in Alaska is the elements themselves.

Caribou
Caribou occupy some of the most lonely and beautiful land in all of North America.
"We've had hunters stranded by high water to the point where their transporter couldn't get in to get them. What are they going to do then?" Dau said.

"That doesn't happen often, but it has happened during my career. And early snows in September, that can happen, too."

If the elements conspire to make hunting caribou on the Alaskan tundra a wild and woolly adventure, then so to is actually getting to that tundra.

Many hunters in the lower 48 think that once their airliner touches down in Anchorage, the biggest part of their journey is behind them.

But it has only just begun.

That's because Alaska encompasses some 365 million acres — a land mass roughly one-fifth of the lower 48.

So how do you find a good outfitter or transporter to fly you into the arctic outback? In a word, research.

  Hunt Planner facts

Subspecies: While all North American caribou belong to a single species, for record-keeping purposes, the animals are divided into the following categories: mountain caribou (Rangifer tarandus montanus, Rangifer tarandus fortidens and Rangifer tarandus osborni); woodland Caribou (Rangifer tarandus caribou from Nova Scotia, New Brunswick and Newfoundland); barren-ground caribou (Rangifer tarandus granti, Rangifer tarandus stonei and Rangifer tarandus arcticus); central Canada caribou (central barren-ground caribou in the Boone & Crockett record book, properly Rangifer tarandus arcticus); and Quebec-Labrador caribou (Rangifer tarandus caboti from Quebec and Labrador).

Range: Due to record keeping categories, here is where to find the various types of tuktu, the Inuit word for caribou: Barren-ground caribou come from Alaska and portions of the Yukon Territory. Central barren-ground caribou come from portions of the Northwest Territories and Manitoba. Mountain caribou come from portions of the Northwest Territories, the Yukon Territory and British Columbia. Quebec-Labrador caribou come from Quebec and Labrador. Woodland caribou come from Newfoundland.

Population: While solid numbers are hard to come by, a loose addition of available figures would place the total North American continental caribou population somewhere between 2½ million to 3 million animals. In Alaska, some 950,000 caribou roam the tundra, while as many as 840,000 caribou have been estimated at times in Canada's Quebec-Labrador and Newfoundland herds.

Hunting seasons: Caribou hunting seasons typically occur in August and September.

Rut: Caribou typically breed in October.

Top caribou-hunting areas:

  • Alaska: This might ruffle the feathers of some die-hard caribou hunters who hunt in Canada, but it's our take that the 49th state is king for caribou. Why? First, the 'bous in Alaska are big, measuring 325 inches or better for the Pope & Young Club's record book (the P&Y world record barren-ground caribou measures 448 6/8 inches) and 400 inches or more for the Boone & Crockett book (the B&C world mark for barren ground caribou is 465 1/8 inches). Next, the state has a stranglehold on the record books, with more than 800 entries in the B&C book and more than 500 entries in the P&Y book. Add in the state's abundant and relatively stable caribou population (last estimated at 950,000) and wealth of public land and it's easy to see why this 365,000,000-acre state sits on the caribou hunting throne. For a guided hunt, expect to pay in the neighborhood of $3,700 to $6,000 to chase caribou in Alaska. Drop camps are also an option, with prices in the $1,500 to $2,200 range.
  • Quebec: If Alaska is king, then Quebec is the heir to the throne by a whisker. In fact, many would argue that the Canadian province is tops for 'bous. Quebec, home to the vast Quebec-Labrador herds numbering as many as 750,000 caribou, is no slouch in the big antler department with a Pope & Young minimum score of 325 inches (the P&Y world record is 434 0/8 inches) and a Boone & Crockett minimum of 375 inches (the B&C world mark is 474 6/8 inches). With 571 all-time entries in the P&Y record book and more than 250 all-time entries in the B&C book, the chance to take a record book 'bou is high in this province. For a guided hunt, expect to pay from $3,000 to $6,000. For a self-guided drop camp hunt, expect to pay $3,500 to $4,500. Some winter hunts are also available at times for fees in the $1,200 to $1,500 range.
  • Northwest Territories: With two types of caribou, the central Canada barren-ground caribou and the mountain, this vast Canadian province has no shortage of big 'bous! Northwest Territories is home to the Boone & Crockett world-record Central Canada barren-ground caribou at 433 4/8 inches, the Pope & Young world-record Central Canada barren ground caribou of 420 6/8 inches and the P&Y world-record mountain caribou of 413 6/8 inches. The province boasts 340 all-time entries in the P&Y archery record book and more than 315 all-time entries in the B&C record book. For a guided hunt in this rugged land of the midnight sun, expect to pay from $3,600 to $6,000.
  • Newfoundland: With a woodland caribou herd some 70,000 to 90,000 strong, Newfoundland is home to plenty of top notch hunting. The province has produced some 132 all-time Pope & Young entries above the 220-inch minimum, including the P&Y world-record woodland caribou measuring 345 2/8 inches. As for Booners, Newfoundland has produced just over 200 'bous topping the minimum score of 295 inches, including the B&C world record of 419 5/8 inches. While woodland stags are consistently smaller than their other caribou cousins, these 'bous are still highly regarded trophies. Expect to pay $3,000 and up for a guided hunt. Combination bear/caribou or moose/caribou hunts start in the $5,000 to $6,000 range.

    Hunting keys:

  • Do your homework: Caribou hunting, especially when centered around the animal's annual migration, is feast or famine according to author M.R. James. Why? These nomadic animals can literally be here today by the tens of thousands, only to be gone tomorrow as the annual urge to migrate takes hold. Check out a prospective outfitter thoroughly: look at their success rates, how mobile they are, how much territory they are able to cover, whether they can relocate you if the migration shifts, and talk with a number of last year's client references. Doing your homework is even more critical if you are planning a drop-camp or do-it-yourself hunt.
  • Hunt early: One of the best ways to hunt caribou may be to skip the migration altogether and opt for an early season hunt on known late summer ranges.
  • Beat the heat: Early season hunts mean warm weather that can spoil both meat and velvet covered antlers, so be prepared to deal with a downed animal promptly.
  • Beat the bugs: Arctic tundra is notorious for pesky, biting insects. Come prepared to battle the bugs with repellent and clothing or be prepared for a miserable few days in the North Country.
  • Lengthen your range: Whether you are shooting a rifle or using a bow, shot distances on the arctic tundra are often longer than those faced by whitetail hunters in eastern woodlots. Work on increasing your lethal and ethical shooting range before heading for the tundra.
  • Spot 'n' stalk: Since arctic tundra is generally open, use good optics to locate and study a herd before making a move on a particular bull. Once you begin a stalk, keep the wind in your favor, use terrain and cover to hide your advance, wait for the animal to bed down or seek relief from the biting tundra insects, and slowly and quietly move your way into shooting range.
  • Ambush: Find a tundra trail that 'bous are filing down steadily? Locate a river bank that tutku are navigating? See a saddle that caribou are using to cross an outcropping of arctic tundra and rocks? Then find a spot to hide with the wind in your favor, sit still, wait patiently and be prepared to make the shot when the bull of choice closes into shooting range.

    Trophy field-judging tips:

  • Field judge carefully: Why? Simple, top end caribou racks are complicated and difficult to judge properly. Since the animals are often spotted from considerable distance, close inspection through a spotting scope and/or good binoculars can help hunters avoid "ground shrinkage" after the trigger is pulled or an arrow is unleashed.
  • Number of points: The total number of points a caribou has on each side is added into that particular side's final score. In other words, the more points, the better!
  • Long main beams: Exceptional caribou bulls will sport long main beams. Look for main beams that appear to be as high as the caribou's body is tall.
  • Inside spread: As with deer and elk, the wider a caribou rack is, the better. As a general rule, look for caribou antlers that are wider than the bull's body is.
  • Good mass: Again, the more, the merrier. But be forewarned that since early season antlers are often still covered in velvet, it can be difficult to accurately judge mass on caribou antlers.
  • Long brow palms: Look for brow palms (also called shovels) or first points that have good length that juts out towards the tip of the bull's nose. If there are a number of long, multiple points on the shovel, all the better.
  • Solid bez points: Located just above a bull's shovel or brow palm, look for bez points that are nearly as long as the bull's shovels are.
  • Long backscratchers: Good caribou bulls will possess long rear-facing points near the middle of the main beam.
  • Top palms: Look for wide palms at the top of a caribou's rack with a number of long top-points.

    (Sources: "The Bowhunter's Handbook" by M.R. James; "Bowhunter's Encyclopedia" by Dwight Schuh; Various state, federal, and provincial conservation agency Web sites; Various caribou oriented Web sites; Boone & Crockett Club Records of North American Big Game, 11th Edition; Boone & Crockett Club's 24th Big Game Awards; Pope & Young Club Bowhunting Big Game Records of North America, 5th Edition; Pope & Young Club's 22nd and 23rd Recording Period Statistical Summaries; and ESPNOutdoors.com files.)

  • "There are a lot of people out there waiting to take your money," Dau said.

    "You've got to do your research. You'll have a better experience if you do that instead of taking the word of a guy who wants to make 3,000 bucks off of you."

    The biologist has found that the best outfitters and transporters develop solid reputations over time, so a word-of-mouth recommendation from another hunter is a good place to start.

    "That doesn't just mean contacting commercial operators and asking for a list of references," Dau said.

    "He'll only give you the list of those who are happy with his services. He will not give you the list of names of people wanting to take him to court."

    Hunting in Alaska for caribou can be an expensive proposition, which leads many hunters to look for ways to cut financial corners.

    Bargain caribou hunters beware, however.

    "I would be leery of people that offer flat-rate hunts; they are making their money by minimizing their investment in you," Dau said. "A guide that charges you by the hour, you're more likely to get what you pay for."

    Other things to watch out for include operators with too much business to handle and those without good, long track records.

    "It's the high-volume guys that I get the most complaints about," Dau said. "It's not that they're bad guys. But if there are one or two days of bad weather, they can get behind the eight ball.

    "I'd look for someone that has been in business 15 or 20 years in the same area; it's obvious he's doing something right. A new guy might be great, but you don't know that."

    All of this becomes critically important when a hunter's dream of killing a caribou on the Alaskan tundra is to become a reality.

    "I see people focused on the trophies, but the meat is something they just assume they can take care of," Dau said. "Once they get a caribou down, they find out in the field that it's often another story."

    While not discouraging the do-it-yourself types, Dau does indicate that hunters need to think through the very real issues of caring for the meat in the wilderness, all the while keeping bears, birds and bugs at bay.

    "If you're going to be out in the field for a long time, meat care is an issue. Every year, many, many guys out here are busted for wasting meat."

    Such meat-care considerations — made even more pressing because of the subsistence needs of native Alaskans who depend on caribou hunting for survival and not recreation — should dictate whether or not a hunter unleashes a bullet or an arrow.

    "Legal behavior doesn't always constitute ethical or wise behavior," Dau said. "You can legally kill your five caribou in an hour, but it's not a wise idea."

    Is hunting caribou in the 49th state a difficult and dangerous endeavor?

    Sure, but it's precisely those wilderness qualities that continue to draw hunters northward like the turning needle on a compass, all of us dreaming of arctic royalty every step of the way.

    Top-5 Boone & Crockett mountain caribou

    (Score, hunter, location, year.)

    1. 453 0/8, C. Candler Hunt, Prospector Mountain, Yukon, 1998
    2. 452 0/8, Garry Beaubien, Turnagain River, British Columbia, 1976
    3. 449 4/8, James R. Hollister, Fire Lake, Yukon, 1989
    4. 448 6/8, John Tomko, Great Salmon Lake, Yukon, 1965
    5. 446 2/8, Irvin Hardcastle, Atlin, British Columbia, 1955

    Top-5 Boone & Crockett woodland caribou

    1. 419 5/8, Gift of H. Casmir de Rham, Unknown, Newfoundland, 1910
    2. 405 4/8, George H. Lesser, Gander River, Newfoundland, 1951
    3. 405 1/8, Robert V. Knutson, Miller Town, Newfoundland, 1966
    4. 380 2/8, Unknown, Bonavista Bay, Newfoundland, 1935
    5. 373 6/8, Gift of J.B. Marvin Jr., Unknown, Newfoundland, 1924

    Top-5 Boone & Crockett barren-ground caribou

    1. 477 0/8, Daniel L. Dobbs, Iliamna Lake, Alaska, 1999
    2. 465 1/8, Roger Hedgecock, Mosquito Creek, Alaska, 1987
    3. 464 6/8, Frank Lobitz, Sharp Mountain, Alaska, 1988
    4. 463 6/8, Ray Loesche, Ugashik Lakes, Alaska, 1967
    5. 461 6/8, John V. Potter Jr., Post River, Alaska, 1976

    Top-5 Boone & Crockett central Canada barren-ground caribou

    1. 433 4/8, Donald J. Hotter III, Humpy Lake, Northwest Territories, 1994
    2. 426 1/8, Al Kuntz, Humpy Lake, Northwest Territories, 1994
    3. 424 7/8, Unknown, Unknown, Manitoba, 1954
    4. 412 6/8, James H. Wooten, MacKay Lake, Northwest Territories, 1989
    5. 408 6/8, Picked up, Rendez-vous Lake, Northwest Territories, 1982

    Top-5 Boone & Crockett Quebec-Labrador caribou

    1. 474 6/8, Zack Elbow, Nain, Labrador, 1931
    2. 464 4/8, James A. DeLuca, Tunulic River, Quebec, 1983
    3. 460 6/8, Lynn D. McLaud, Ungava Bay, Quebec, 1978
    4. 439 1/8, Don Tomberlin, Ungava Bay, Quebec, 1985
    5. 438 2/8, Ronald R. Ragan, Beach Camp, Quebec, 1975

    Sources: Boone & Crockett Club Records of North American Big Game, 11th Edition; Boone & Crockett Club's 24th Big Game Awards; and Boone & Crockett Club Web site.

    Top-5 Pope & Young mountain caribou

    1. 413 6/8, Chuck Adams, Divide Lake, Northwest Territories, 1995
    2. 410 2/8, Thomas B. Frye, Cassiar Mountains, British Columbia, 1978
    3. 399 0/8, Joseph Hinderman, Cassiar Mountains, British Columbia, 1997
    4. 396 4/8, John E. Anderson, John E. Anderson, Northwest Territories, 1995
    5. 391 3/8, John D. "Jack" Frost, Tuya Lake, British Columbia, 1995

    Top-5 Pope & Young woodland caribou

    1. 345 2/8, Dempsey Cape, Victoria River, Newfoundland, 1966
    2. 331 3/8, David W. Schrody, Gander River, Newfoundland, 2000
    3. 324 7/8, Frank M. Monberger, Deer Pond, Newfoundland, 1993
    4. 324 0/8, Ed J. Bowser, Sitdown Pond, Newfoundland, 1966
    5. 320 4/8, M.R. James, Middle Ridge, Newfoundland, 1999

    Top-5 Pope & Young barren-ground caribou

    1. 448 6/8, Dennis Burdick, Lake Clark, Alaska, 1984
    2. 446 6/8, Art Kragness, Meshik River, Alaska, 1970
    3. 424 4/8, Jack Wood, Naknek River, Alaska, 1990
    4. 424 0/8, Bill Brown, Delta River, Alaska, 1960
    5. 419 6/8, Scott Atton, Pilot Point, Alaska, 1987

    Top-5 Pope & Young central Canada barren-ground caribou

    1. 420 6/8, Al Kuntz, Humpy Lake, Northwest Territories, 1994
    2. 405 3/8, Dan Gartner, MacKay Lake, Northwest Territories, 1997
    3. 388 4/8, Adrian L. Erickson, Little Marten Lake, Northwest Territories, 1990
    4. 387 3/8, James Gopffarth, Little Marten Lake, Northwest Territories, 1996
    5. 387 1/8, Randall J. Kiessel, Baffin Island, Northwest Territories, 1986

    Top-5 Pope & Young Quebec-Labrador caribou

    1. 434 0/8, Carol Ann Mauch, Tunulik River, Quebec, 1984
    2. 429 1/8, Bob Foulkrod , Delay River, Quebec, 1985
    3. 419 4/8, Patricio Sada Muguerza, Natuak Lake, Quebec, 1993
    4. 416 6/8, Ricardo L. Garza, Lake Consigny, Quebec, 1989
    5. 416 5/8, Collins F. Kellogg, George River, Quebec, 1978

    Sources: Pope & Young Club Bowhunting Big Game Records of North America, 5th Edition and Pope & Young Club's 22nd and 23rd recording Period Statistical Summary.