C'est magnifique


DEAUVILLE, France -- Soon after the summer dawn breaks over the
English Channel, hoofbeats echo along the coast of Normandy. A line of
thoroughbreds moves along the shore and into the chilly sea, a pleasant
break from their morning routine. That's what Deauville (say DOE-veal) is
all about for people, too.

Every year at the beginning of August, a quiet resort town of 4,500
turns into horse heaven for four glorious weeks, when the population can
rise to 75,000. Almost everyone who matters in French racing migrates the
128 miles northwest from Paris to immerse themselves in the scene. There's
racing or championship polo each day at one of two exquisitely pretty
tracks -- Clairefontaine and La Touques (say TEWKS), better known as

It's Saratoga with a beach; Del Mar with a French accent.

"The sun, the sea and the horses," said trainer Criquette
Head-Maarek, a Deauville regular since she was a baby. "I'm 53, so I've been
coming here for 53 years," she said last week in Deauville's paddock. "It's
a special place. We come here and spend a month. For French racing, it's a
mixture of vacation and work."

The slogan is "Deauville aime le cheval," which means "Deauville
loves the horse," and the passion lasts day and night during a month when
the thoroughbred is an essential part of the culture. At noon, men sit at
outdoor tables down the street from the track at Le Pur Sang (The
Thoroughbred), sipping espresso or beer as they study Paris-Turf, France's
version of the Daily Racing Form. At night, the racetrack crowd drinks at Le
Broc Café, rehashing the day's races and sharing thoughts on tomorrow's.

"It's like Del Mar," said Olivier Peslier, one of the world's top
jockeys and well on his way to winning his fifth French riding title.

"It's a holiday for everybody -- owners, trainers, jockeys. Everybody
is happy. It's a long meeting, so you're staying in one place for a month.
In Paris, you have to drive an hour to Chantilly for morning gallops, and
then drive an hour back. That tires you. Here you're more relaxed."

The striking beauty of the surroundings can charm a cynic and mellow
out a fried city dweller. Clairefontaine, which runs mostly cheap races on
the flat and over jumps, is a pretty country track located just outside of
town. Its big sister, Deauville, is a knockout, one of the loveliest
racecourses in the world.

An entrance lined on both sides by ancient oaks leads to a brick
clubhouse whose ultramodern interior is an immaculate white. There are only
about 3,000 seats, so most of the people gravitate to the back yard, as they
do at Saratoga. A rubberized walking ring encircles an elegant paddock
filled with oaks and Japanese maples ringed by pink and blue flowers. A
weekend crowd of about 10,000 stands three and four deep to watch
blue-blooded 2-year-olds owned by the Maktoums of Dubai, Michael Tabor and
Khalid Abdullah.

A few yards away stands undoubtedly the snazziest weighing room in
the world, a magnificent example of the half-timbered style of Norman
architecture. The exterior features vertical, diagonal and crisscrossed
beams of wood, and inside brown oak paneling covers the walls and the high,
curved ceiling. Equine art and formal hats are sold nearby in white tents,
and concession stands offer sandwiches, beer, wine and liquor.

There are three clockwise courses, two curving, one straight, with
lush, ankle-deep grass, and they surround a polo ground. The fairly level
stretch is about 2 1/2 furlongs, with the fields bunching up until they fan
out near the quarter pole to sprint to the wire. Even with a large
television screen in the infield and high-powered binoculars, it's hard to
identify horses until midstretch. Except for the sight lines, though, few
could complain about anything. C'est magnifique.

"It's extremely pretty here, and it's a lovely meeting," said Daniel
Lahalle, a racing journalist since 1967. "The atmosphere is a little bit
cooler than in Paris, and there's less stress with people on holiday."

That doesn't mean there's no pressure to win, though. Freddy Head,
Criquette's brother, has been training for four years since ending a long
riding career that included wins aboard the superstar filly Miesque in the
1987 and 1988 Breeders' Cup Miles.

"Deauville is fun, and it's a special place for us," Head said. "We
came here when we were children. But everybody's on the spot, because we
have more owners here than in Paris because everyone is on vacation."

Head pleased his client Sheikh Hamdan al Maktoum a few hours earlier
when he won the opener on Sunday, Aug. 12 with the 2-year-old Hothaifah, a
second-time starter. Just like at Saratoga, baby races bring out the stars
of the future at Deauville. "It's nice, because most of the good 2-year-olds
come out here for the first time," Criquette Head said.

Deauville's first race on Tuesday, Aug. 14 featured a 2-year-old son
of Woodman and Balanchine, who routed colts in the 1995 Irish Derby. Thanks
to his pedigree and connections, Peslier and the all-conquering trainer
Andre Fabre, Gulf News went off at odds-on. Three days before, Peslier and
Fabre teamed up in five races and won them all, which was insane. Gulf News
temporarily halted their dominance, finishing fifth in a mile race for
unraced 2-year-olds. As they do at Saratoga, the rich always get richer,
just not all the time.

A half-hour later came the debut of the 2-year-old filly Quad's
Melody, the first offspring of 1997 Breeders' Cup Mile winner Spinning World
to run in France. Unlike Gulf News, she did it right the first time, blowing
away a strung-out field at odds of 8-5.

At this week's Deauville sales, France's best-bred and most expensive
yearlings, along with others from throughout Europe, are being sold across
the street from the track. Some will be from the nearby Haras de Quesnay, an
important stud owned since 1958 by Alec Head, father of Freddy and
Criquette. Normandy is a world-class breeding area, and hundreds of big-race
winners were auctioned here.

After the sales and the final card on Aug. 28, the horsey set will
return to Paris, the epicenter of French racing, for the major autumn races
at Longchamp. In fall and winter, Deauville seems deserted, with the winds
from the Channel bringing in chilling rain from the north. No horses greet
the dawn along the seashore, and horseplayers hang out at off-track betting
parlors instead of at the gorgeous tracks.

That's the dark side of a summer place, but there's always next year.
That's the way it's been since Deauville opened in August 1864, when
Saratoga also happened to run its first meeting on its present site. Racing
never had a more promising month.