Nuremberg

Frankenstadion, and Kaiserburg Castle, in the old quarter of Nuremburg. (Joerg Koch/Getty Images, AP Photo/Stadt Nuernberg)
World Cup visitors to Nuremberg can be certain of one thing -- they will eat and drink well in the beautiful Franconian city.
Nuremberg is famed for its delicious 'Bratwurst', smallish, slim pork sausages roasted over wood fires and then served with either sauerkraut (pickled cabbage), potato salad, onions or radishes. Helpings are always plentiful and accompanied by a glass or two of the city's excellent brew -- particularly Tucher, Patrizia and Lederer -- you cannot go wrong. The city has a host of atmospheric speciality sausage restaurants, the best being Bratwursthausle on Rathausplatz, Bratwurst Roslein on Obstmarkt and the Historische Bratwurstkuche (Zirkelschmiedsgasse).
Other centrally located eateries renowned for tasty regional dishes are the Goldenes Posthorn (Glockleinsgasse), a big favourite with locals whose fare is not quite as heavy as traditional German cuisine. Try the classic, convivial Heilig-Geist Spital housed in the city's old medieval hospital (Spitalgasse). Then there is the wine bar/restaurant Bohms Herrenkeller (Theatergasse) and Alte Kuch'n (Albrecht Durer Strasse), a place famed for its "Backers", a Nuremberg potato pancake. Also numerous are Italian, Turkish, Vietnamese and Spanish outlets.
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In the beer department, Nurembergers swear by the much-celebrated "Dunkel" dark ale and when the sun comes out, there are no better places to try it than the many beer gardens in the city. Look out for Kettenstein on Marxplatz close to the River Pegnitz, Burgwachter (Am Ollberg) and Hirsch on Vogelstrasse, which is also a nightclub and music venue.
Lively bars abound too. The Parkcafe on Berliner Platz in the Stadtpark (City Park) to the north of town is very popular, as are Freudenpark (Kilianstrasse), the Zwinger Bar (Lorenzer Strasse), which also doubles up as a disco and live music venue, and if you are looking for a good old Irish haunt, try O'Shea's on Wespennest. As in every other German city, Nuremberg has its share of top-notch micro-breweries: Barfusser on Hallplatz and the Altstadthof Hausbrauerei (Bergstrasse).
If beer not for you, then the wine is equally superb. The Franconian wine region is home to some outstandingly distinctive dry wines, especially Silvaner.
On encountering the picturesque, undulating Nuremberg old town today, it's almost impossible to comprehend that over 90 per cent of the city centre was demolished by Allied bombing raids towards the end of the Second World War. Still, with the utmost patience and attention to detail -- only the original stone was used -- the old medieval churches, fortifications and castle were restored to its former glory. A visit to Nuremberg very much means going back in time. The Imperial Castle (Kaiserburg) is an absolute must-see and its hilltop position provides views over the city which are simply incredible.
Nuremberg will forever be known for its close connections with Nazism, for Hitler's mass rallies held here and the passing of the so-called Nuremberg Laws in 1935, which stripped Jews of their citizenship. To their credit, the Nurembergers have made no attempt to sweep those depraved days under the carpet.
The Nazi rally grounds (Reichsparteitagsgelande) and the courthouse where the Nuremberg war crimes trial took place -- just to the west of Old Town on Further Strasse -- have survived, but the emphasis now is very much on remembering the victims, preaching peace and telling a no-holds-barred story of what actually went on. The rally grounds are located about 4 km south-east of the city centre in the suburb of Luitpoldhain and feature an impressive Documentation Centre which chronicles the Nazi rise to power and their atrocities. To get there take tram 9 to Luitpoldhain.
While the hilly terrain of the Old Town can sap the energy in summer, the centre of Nuremberg does at least have the advantage of being mainly pedestrianised. Those who flag can turn to the excellent public transport network of U Bahn (underground train), S Bahn (suburban shuttle), tram and bus. One ticket fits all, with a short ride costing roughly €1.40 and a day pass setting you back €3.50.
The main train station is just beyond the old city walls, not far from the south-eastern corner of the Old Town. U Bahn line 2 links the station with the airport, the journey taking just over ten minutes and costing approximately €2. You will find the main tourist office at the rail station.
Home to Bundesliga outfit FC Nürnberg (who in these parts are just known as 'Club'), the renovated 37,000 capacity Frankenstadion is found in the south-east of town. From the railway station take S Bahn line 2, which runs every ten minutes to the Frankenstadion stop.
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