Zentralstadion and Augustusplatz in Leipzig. (John MacDougall/Getty Images, AP Photo/Eckehard Schulz)

It should surprise no one that Leipzig has turned out to be the most dynamic of all the cities in the old East Germany.

After all, back in the autumn of 1989, its citizens were very much in the vanguard of the peaceful revolution which brought an end to Communist rule in the DDR and paved the way for the reunification of Germany.

And no building represents the new, forward-looking Leipzig more than the 1998-renovated railway station (Hauptbahnhof) to the north-east of the city centre. This imposing glass temple is not only Europe's second-largest passenger terminus but also serves a municipal focal point, housing in a three-floor mall countless shops, bars and restaurants. By the way, the bus station is next door.

Most of the city's tram lines run through Willy Brandt Platz in front of the station. Single tickets cost just over £1, while a 24-hour pass is £3.

Another symbol of Leipzig in the 21st century is its 39,000-capacity football ground, the imaginatively remodelled Zentralstadion. Architects here had the bright idea of building a high-tech arena within the walls of the old bowl-like structure. It's a real shame that it has no chance of playing host to Bundesliga games as the resident club, Sachsen Leipzig, are currently in the German Fourth Division.

Located to the north-west of town, the Zentralstadion is easily reached in ten minutes on a tram from the railway station. Take either line 3 (in the direction of Knautkleeberg), line 7 (Bohlitz Ehrenberg) or line 15 (Miltitz), embarking at the Sportforum stop.

For the month of the World Cup, Leipzig will organise a Fan Village on Augustusplatz, a vast square near the Opera House, a few blocks east of the central marketplace. Open from 1 p.m. to 11 p.m. on weekdays and 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. at weekends, it will feature football on the big screen, umpteen snack and drink concessions, tourist information, concerts and children's play area.

Food in the former DDR was notoriously bland and unappetising, but such complaints certainly do not hold true in Leipzig today. High-quality fare at affordable prices is available in any number of German taverns, ethnic restaurants and fast-food outlets. Cooking in this part of the Saxony region can either be solid or sophisticated, with local specialities including 'Eintopf', a one-pot beef or pork casserole, a wonderful range of sausages, Leipziger Allerlei (mixed vegetables in a butter sauce with shrimps) and delicious freshwater fish.

Try to make a bee-line for Auerbach's Keller (in Madlerpassage off Grimmaische Strasse). The oldest restaurant in town (founded on this site in 1525), it's a place full of atmosphere and history, having inspired part of Goethe's epic play Faust. The menu is excellent too, particularly the lamb with mustard sauce and any pork dish. Other establishments with a reputation for good local food are Apels Garten on Kolonnadenstrasse, Barthels Hof, a restaurant-cum-wine bar in a famous courtyard (Hainstrasse) and Alte Nikolaischule near the St Nicholas Church, a popular haunt for both tourists and locals. The Ratskeller, the basement restaurant at the New Town Hall on Lotterstarsse is equally good for the pallet.

The pick of the foreign eateries are the Indian Garten curry house on Nikolaistarsse -- though German tastes dictate that the chefs go easy on the spices -- and the classy Italian Medici (Nikolaikirchof). For quick bites and less pretentious settings, check out the wraps, sandwiches and cakes at Crossi Bistro (Johannisplatz), the pizza and pasta dishes of Subito (Grimmaische Strasse) and the mouthwatering offerings of Bagel Brothers (Nikolaistrasse).

Most of Leipzig's night time refuelling takes place the in bar-crammed streets just west of the Markt and Gottschedstrasse to the west of the Old Town. Two of the most frequented watering holes in the latter is the self-explanatory Vodkaria and the Milchbar.

Also popular are the Mephisto Bar above Auerbach's Keller and the Champions Sports Bar (Am Hallischen Tor), where Miller draft, burgers and fries reign supreme. Morrison's (Ritterstrasse) and McCormack's (Karl Liebknecht Strasse) are two bustling Irish pubs, with the first of those priding itself on its 120 whiskeys, while the second does a great all-you-can eat buffet on Sundays.

Two of the best nightclubs are Ground Zero on Gottschedstrasse and Moritzbastei, a huge complex of student clubs, bars and disco open to the non-studious as well. It's on Universitatstrasse to the south of the Old Town.

Once home to famous composers Bach, Mendelssohn, Schumann and Wagner, Leipzig is very much a classical music city. The Bach Museum on Thomaskirchof is a major tourist attraction.

About 30 miles outside Leipzig is Colditz castle, where Allied officers with a penchant for escaping were banged up during the Second World War. The fortress is now the site of the Escape Museum, open daily 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. To get to Colditz take buses 690 or 931 from Leipzig.

Leipzig airport is to the north-west of town in Schkeuditz. The city centre can be reached by train or shuttle bus. The main tourist office is on Richard Wagner Strasse.

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